I probably spent two hours asking a very polite young man to unhook the lanterns and bring them down for me to look at, and I confess in the end that I couldn't find one that I was really sold on.

As is the style of Moroccan delicacies, the cocktails ($17 except for a $100 gold martini — if you must) tend toward the rich and sweet like the Kaz-Bar (rye whiskey, lemon juice, maple syrup ...