Surf literature isn't, always, an oxymoron. And sure there’s a load of books out there in the Amazon warehouses that depict surfing in all its forms. Autobiographies, biographies, coffee-table ...

"There are approximately 1.5 million miles of coastline in the world, with waves breaking on them about 8,600 times every day, and yet good surfing waves are very uncommon, and world-class waves ...

A day after graduating high school in 1972, 17-year-old Brad Gessner packed up his Chevy van and drove out to Encinitas from ...

If surfing is a "tribe," as we sometimes like to say, then the tradition of storytelling is paramount in preserving its culture and passing along generational narratives and knowledge. NEWSLETTERS ...

Thanks to author Claudia Lebenthal and her new book "Surf Stories," a dozen classic stories have ... his "usual" time was somewhere between 10:00 and 11:00 am depending on how good the surf at San ...