When a restaurant boldly declares “BEST RIBS IN AMERICA” on its facade, it’s either setting itself up for disappointment or throwing down a smoky gauntlet. At Michelbob’s, it’s definitely the latter.

The Brown Bag’s Tuna Melt is to ordinary tuna melts what Beyoncé is to karaoke night at your local dive bar. It starts with house-made tuna salad – not the sad, watery stuff from the back of your ...