Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr serve food on bare tables at their first two restaurants — Frenchette and Le Rock — but modeled the red-and-white-checked tablecloths they use at Le Veau d’Or after ...

Fifteen years ago, New York Post critic Steve Cuozzo bemoaned the “infantilization of dining” as white tablecloths — elegant ... now owns Cafe Kestrel in Red Hook, is similarly happy ...