In Naveisabasaba, a village 100 kilometres south of Nadi, Kelera and Abel Raidaveta cradle their eight-week-old son Luke. “We don’t know if our kids will be able to stay here,” Kerala says.

Located on Viti Levu, tour company Sigatoka River Safari offers visitors a slice of village life along a Fijian river, where they can learn about the history, dine on local fare and participate in ...